Old School for Newbies: Supplemental Reading 2: Buying Old School New

As a follow-up to my post about Chinese indie brands that sell old school lolita, and preceding my panel at J-Fashion University, I decided to create a list of every brand outside of Taobao that I could find that sells old school lolita on a semi-consistent basis. This was not a trivial undertaking, but I hope the results are useful.

I've already laid out my criteria previously. For this post, though, I was a little more stringent-- brands had to sell old school suitable garments semi-consistently, not just as one item among many. This list includes a lot of gothic and classic brands; brands that don't fit into the picturesque old school sweet image, but nonetheless maintain the same look and feel as gothic and classic lolita did around the year 2004. New items in old school style are essential; we can't make more old pieces, but we can keep expanding design accessibility through new pieces!

Ero and Old School: Forsaken Lolita Taxonomy

Last taxonomy post, I talked about themes, substyles, and lolita taxonomy, specifically with regards to nonsense-term 'bittersweet' and my beloved punk lolita. This post is about ero lolita and old school lolita, what categories they fall into, and how that might effect coordination of each. Like 'bittersweet',old school seems to be a term used primarily by anglophone lolitas. 

Old School for Newbies: Core Reading 1: My Old School Criteria

Old school lolita is difficult to pin down stylistically because it isn't a substyle. Age is, of course, the primary factor here: if it was made between 1997 and around 2005, it'll probably look old school. But there's more elements, tangible and intangible, that make a piece old school-able. The materials, construction, accessories, styling, and overall mood of the coordinate all play a key role.

As the presenter for Old School for Newbies at Bay Area Kei's J-Fashion University, I have a duty to share exactly what qualifies as 'old school', at least for my panel's purposes. By no means am I saying I'm a real authority; I've only been wearing lolita for seven years. However, I think developing some clear(ish) guidelines can help people new to old school adopt an eye for the style. Some of this post is adapted from the LiveJournal Lolita Handbook: give it a look if you're unfamiliar or nostalgic.

In other words, I have crowned myself the arbiter of style and taste, and with this post, so can you!

Old School for Newbies: Supplemental Reading 3: Size Inclusivity in Old School

Congratulations, students! This is my last post before Bay Area Kei's J-Fashion University, and my panel there on old school. In this reading, I present lists of brands alongside a little bit of explanation about size inclusivity, then and now. For inclusion in these lists, a brand has to regularly produce items with a bust above 98 cm and/or waist above 80 cm. I also included closed brands that might have plus-size options secondhand. This isn't to say that other brands don't carry plus sizes, just that these are a few of the more reliable choices edited from the other posts, with a couple addenda. All lists are numbered and alphabetized for convenience.

Old School for Newbies: Supplemental Reading 1: Old School on Taobao

Old school is a passion of mine. I'm lucky enough to be hosting a panel on Old School for Newbies at Bay Area Kei's upcoming J-Fashion University, so I decided to compile lists of stores that sell old school-styled lolita clothing and supplies. Since this is a university theme, each post related to my "class" will be framed as a course component.

Old school is difficult to find on Taobao, so I went through more than 300 stores in order to find all of the stores that had at least one piece that looks reasonably old school. I've also included a few sellers of sewing supplies. 

I followed strict criteria for these selections, which can be found in Core Reading 1.

Oldschool is a Substyle Now

And I'm mad about it.

In 2021, I wrote about how old school isn't a substyle and I stand by that. However, I think that oldschool (which I'm spelling all one word for contrast) has morphed into its own subculture within the style.

Bittersweet and Punk: Forsaken Lolita Taxonomy

Lolita taxonomy is hard. By documenting and verbalizing the styles we love, we preserve them, give ourselves bases from which to experiment, and make them easy to pass on. Even though lolita is an incredibly organized, well documented fashion, there are still major disagreements as to what deserves to be a substyle and what's just a theme. For those unfamiliar with lolita terms, a substyle is one of the major divisions (usually gothic lolita, sweet lolita, and classic lolita, the big three), while a theme is a set of motifs that coordinates can use (sailor lolita, country lolita, and military lolita, to name just a few).

Bittersweet lolita, punk lolita, ero lolita, and old school lolita are all points of contention that seem to never resolve. In this post, I'll discuss bittersweet and punk, and next post, I'll discuss ero and old school. 

(In Lieu Of A) Wardrobe Post 2022: Celebrating Items I No Longer Own

Happy 2022! Time is only as real as you make it, so I'm making this my first foray into the wild world of posting in 2022. For this year, I can't be bothered to do a full wardrobe post, so it's going to be a series of short updates. This is somewhat in keeping of the traditional theme of wardrobe posts.

I sold a few of my main pieces last year, finally! I keep them memorialized in a desktop folder called "Gone But Not Forgotten". Without further ado, here are the important pieces I no longer own (and why). 

Last Minute Lolita Gifts

It's almost the New Year, which means it's time for friends and family to gather 'round and give each other things probably. I don't know; my Christmas ritual has been disrupted by all the Chinese restaurants in the area getting overbooked and the movies requiring human contact. Anyway, although it can be sweet of people to attempt relevant gifts for lolitas, trying to look into a fashion you know nothing about in order to give gifts is a challenge at best; my mother, for example, wouldn't know Kuma Kumya if it came up to her and bit her.

Magicalgirlme and Wunderwelt both have gift recommendations, but those require a certain knowledge of the lolita's taste. These recommendations, simply put, just require a vague knowledge of what the lolita has already.

(In Lieu Of A) Wardrobe Post 2022: New Items From 2021

It's the most wonderful time of the year: January, when all the lolitas (and Bibliotheca writers)reenact a LiveJournal theme and post our updated wardrobes. I, however, am a grade-A lazybones, and I have a burning lack of desire to put forth my abysmal photography skills once again, so here's an update comprised of listing images from the items I bought this year, arranged by item type. Most of them have dubious or nonexistent release dates and official names, so I simply won't bother listing a year. 

Bibliotheca: Mirror

It's Bibliotheca time! Between High Holy Days and various October occurrences, I've been forgetting to blog; that's on me, and I'm now going to budget time for it just like how I budget time for appeasing the Duolingo owl's endless hunger. 

For the post of mirrors, I'm reflecting on lolita's role as what I'm calling a "documentary fashion". I'm not sure whether or where I've heard this term before, but if the (chunky-soled, bow-festooned) shoe fits, we might as well strap in. 

College Dorm Wardrobe Tips

It's August, which means many college students are heading (back) to the dorms. Not-so-coincidentally, Bay Area Kei is running a college-themed event (J-Fashion University) in just a couple weeks.  Although I successfully swam through the disease-ridden creek to graduate from my swamp college two years ago (it was an unofficial graduation requirement), college is still fresh in my memory. Like many lolitas, I really started building my wardrobe and wearing lolita regularly in college. With my plentiful mistakes in mind, I'm now able to offer advice on how to semi-successfully build a wardrobe in the rarefied environment that a campus full of insecure young adults provides. 

Old School For Newbies Panel Links

Here's the links for the resources I mention in my panel for J-Fashion University. When the Old School for Newbies panel goes up on the Bay Area Kei Youtube, I'll link that, too!

Bibliotheca: What I Did On My Summer Vacation

It's Bibliotheca time and also the beginning of the school year. This month's prompt (lounging around) doesn't really mesh with my current lifestyle, so I've decided to regale the internet with a school-style essay instead, because it really does feel like I missed the summer homework assignment until the last minute.

Bibliotheca: Headwear pt. 2: Who needs it?

For the second half of my Bibliotheca headwear themed posts this month, I'm trotting out an even hotter take than usual. 

I love headdresses, hats mini and huge, stupid little clips and cakes and bows that make people look like the most conspicuous shoplifter in Clair's. But with all that affection for headwear, I still don't think headwear is required. 

About

Hello and welcome!

I'm frillSquid, or ceramicSquid on lacemarket (nowhere else). I use they/them pronouns.

I've been wearing lolita fashion actively since 2014. Although I started out wearing classic lolita and ouji, my repertoire has expanded to old school sweet, gothic, and punk styles; I also wear some goth fashion.

I've been sewing and crafting regularly since I started going to conventions in 2011. I enjoy chainmaille and sculpting with polymer clay, but I can use a variety of media. 

I'm currently working on my Master's in Library Science and I'm a consummate researcher.

I started this blog in May 2020, during the covid19 epidemic, in order to post the Lolita Beginner's Manual (still a WIP). Although it's been years since I started wearing the fashion, the resources for newbies haven't changed, and I wanted to make a guide to reflect the fashion as it is now. 

As of now, I'm just going to treat this as a normal blog.

Please contact me with any questions!

Best,

frillSquid

Material Matters: An Introduction to Organza

The specifics of fabrics can often be confusing for lolitas, even experienced ones. Lolita material discourse typically centers around the primary polyester vs. cotton divide, with adherents on both sides. Rarely does the discussion cover the specifics beyond the fiber content. I've covered the basics of lolita fabric in my old school post series, in which I divided the identity of a fabric into four components: fiber content, weave, all-over dye, and print. Any fabric can come in any color or print, but weave and fiber content define a fabric.

Organza (and organdy, which is a variation thereof) is a tricky fabric to deal with. Despite having been a minor part of lolita since its inception, and having many uses, it's a real pain to sew with, and can fail in new and interesting ways that small-scale brands may have trouble managing. Because of this, organza was seldom used until after the OTT sweet boom. So, this unique textile is a perfect introduction to why fabrics are more than just an aesthetic choice. 

Wardrobe Post 2021: Intro and Main Pieces

After six years in lolita and ouji, I've decided to do my very first wardrobe post. Because I have kind of a larger wardrobe, I'm going to divide it into several posts; this one has pictures of all my skirts and dresses. There won't be pictures of bloomers, petticoats,plain tights, or offbrand stuff that I rarely use for lolita, but there are some brand items that aren't really suitable for the fashion. Items for which the names are unknown will be described in lowercase. I used a blanket as a backdrop for the items I photographed flat; because this is all in my north-facing bedroom, space is tight and lighting is bad.

Abbreviations:
AATP-- Alice and the Pirates;AP-- Angelic Pretty; BPN-- Black Peace Now; BTSSB-- Baby the Stars Shine Bright; IW-- Innocent World; MAM-- Maxicimam; Meta-- Metamorphose Temps de Fille.

Let's get started!

Outerwear and Blouses 

Shorts, Pants, and Socks

Accessories, Bags, and Shoes  

Reflections