Old School for Newbies: Supplemental Reading 2: Buying Old School New

As a follow-up to my post about Chinese indie brands that sell old school lolita, and preceding my panel at J-Fashion University, I decided to create a list of every brand outside of Taobao that I could find that sells old school lolita on a semi-consistent basis. This was not a trivial undertaking, but I hope the results are useful.

I've already laid out my criteria previously. For this post, though, I was a little more stringent-- brands had to sell old school suitable garments semi-consistently, not just as one item among many. This list includes a lot of gothic and classic brands; brands that don't fit into the picturesque old school sweet image, but nonetheless maintain the same look and feel as gothic and classic lolita did around the year 2004. New items in old school style are essential; we can't make more old pieces, but we can keep expanding design accessibility through new pieces!

For this list, I looked through every brand on Lolibrary, on the indie lolita brand list, in several hundred Etsy results, and in every Gothic & Lolita Bible up until 2005. However, I'm sure to have missed something, so this is a living document-- please comment or message me for what I'm missing!

Japan-based brands   

  • Antique Beast

https://a-beast.ocnk.net/ 

Gothic brand, opens sporadically. Many old school suitable items. 


  •  And Romeo

https://www.rakuten.co.jp/auc-andromeo/  

Affordable brand with lots of substyles; they often reuse older designs. 


  • Angelic Pretty

http://www.angelicpretty.com/

The quintessential sweet lolita brand. Occasionally releases or re-releases basics that work for old school. 


  • Atelier Boz

https://www.atelier-boz.co.jp/ 

Closing as I type this. Classy, well tailored designs that haven't changed since the first GLB. The designer may be reappearing soon, so watch this space.  


  • Atelier Pierrot

https://atelier-pierrot.stores.jp/

Gothic and classic staples, great for international shipping, pretty decent size range, and they stock several other brands. 


  • Baby the Stars Shine Bright (and Alice and the Pirates)

https://www.babyssb.co.jp/ 

Frequently rereleases old designs under their "Classical Series" label. Famously featured in Kamikaze Girls


  •  Bodyline

https://www.bodylinetokyo.co.jp/

Often called the Walmart of lolita. Variable stock of variable quality, but they still stock some old blouses, shoes, and dresses. Not highly recommended. 

 

  • Chocochip Cookie

https://chocochip-cookie.ocnk.net/

Mostly JSKs, OPs, and doll clothes. Lots of cute florals in commercially available fabrics.  


  • Emily Temple Cute

http://emilytemplecute-shop.com/

Often considered otome-kei, but has old-school lolita suitable items.  


  •  Fairy Wish

https://fairy-wish.com/

A retailer with a house brand. Lots of nice, low-poof cotton items for more subdued sweet styles.  


  • Innocent World

https://innocent-w.jp/ 

The exact crossover point between sweet and classic lolita. Great for socks and accessories, and sometimes has cotton blouses and rereleased dresses. 

 

  • Jane Marple

http://janemarple.shop-pro.jp/

A brand that is typically classified as otome but has some old-school suitable items with a classic, British inspired feel.  

 

  • La Luice

https://laluice.com/

Accessory brand with this one ballerina bunny bag that's very popular.  


  • Leur Getter

http://leur-getter.com/

Otome brand. Some items may be suitable for old school sweet. 


  •  MARBLE

http://www.marble-02.com/

A gothic brand specializing in raschel lace-covered items. Sometimes MARBLE is considered ita, but it's undeniably very old school.  

 

  • Mary Magdalene

http://www.marymagdalene.jp/

Classic lolita brand with beautiful tailoring in limited sizes. May or may not actually be in business; their shop is up but empty. 


  • MAXICIMAM

https://www.maxicimam.com/

One of my favorites. Has two main lines: MA, which is punk, and MAM, which is lolita, as well as MAM Lovely, their plus-size range for MAM designs. Also sells sewing materials. 

 

  • Metamorphose Temps de Fille

https://metamorphose.gr.jp/

An old standby, now with overt plus sizing. Sweet and classic lolita. Their basics series is often usable for old school, and they still use raschel lace on occasion.  

 

  • MIHO MATSUDA

https://mihomatsuda.ocnk.net/

Gothic brand with small sizing. Has a lot of streamlined, tailored-looking options. 


  •  MILK

https://milk-web.net/

The quintessential otome brand. Lots of goofy stuff, some of which works for old school. 


  • Milky Ange

http://www.milky-ange.com/

An interesting mixture of old school sweet lolita and maid costumes. 


  • Millefleurs and Millenoirs

https://millefleurs-noirs.com/

Very elegant classic and gothic lolita. 

 

  • Moi-même-Moitié

https://moi-meme-moitie.com/

Mana-sama's personal brand, now owned by Wunderwelt. Most of the current main pieces don't work for old school, but the accessories and jewelry are a nice gothic touch, especially for people who like crosses. 


  • MR Corset

https://mrcorset.com/

Primarily a corset shop; some pieces might work for old school gothic.  


  • Physical Drop

https://tawaraya-kato.ocnk.net/

Personal project of former Meta designer Kato-san. Typically has loose, slightly long silhouettes in cotton fabrics. 

 

  • Pina Sweet Collection

http://pinasweet.shop-pro.jp/

Sweet and sweet-classic, mostly main pieces.  

 

  • Pink House

https://pinkhouse-webshop.jp/

Specializes in their unique style of prairie revival designs, often made of cotton. Not really lolita, but some stuff may work. 

 

  • Rosa Bianca

https://rosabianca.jp/

Streamlined classic lolita designs.  

 

  • Seraphim

https://seraphim.shop-pro.jp/

Classic and historical-feeling pieces in longer lengths. 


  • Sheglit

https://sheglit-store.com/

Gothic and gothic lolita, uses a lot of butterflies as a motif.  


  • Sincerely 

http://sincerely.babyblue.jp/

Very historically-inspired designs in long lengths.


  • Spica

https://www.spica-shop.com/

Punk and gothic accessories, plus some unbelievable mini-hats.  


  • Victorian Maiden

http://www.victorianmaiden.jp/

A classic lolita brand, resurrected. Known to have limited sizing.  


  • Vierge Vampur

https://viergevampur.wixsite.com/neko  

Run by one person, who screenprints the dresses in her apartment. Screenprinted items might be nice for old school .


Brands based elsewhere

  • A Gato Designs

https://agatodesigns.com/ 

Maryland, US. Changes style with basically every series; some items might be old school suitable, depending on how the designer feels that month. Might do commissions. Plus-size friendly.

 

  • Anna House

http://www.annahousefashion.com/

Hong Kong. An excellent source for off-the-rack, custom designs, and custom-sized old school sweet. 


  • Baroque

https://baroquelolita.net/

Korea. A lot of longer lengths and elegant cuts for sweet and classic. 


  • Belladonna

https://belladonna.storenvy.com/

Maryland, US. Primarily sweet, but also has done classic. Good size range. Great source for lolita face masks.

 

  • The Black Ribbon

https://theblackribbon.bigcartel.com/

California, US. More-or-less classic, usually using commercially available fabric. Their old school socks are great! 

 

  • Chrysanthemum's Concerto

https://ccshop98497.wixsite.com/home/

UK. A newer brand with a lovely gingham JSK and good sizing. 


  • Cloudberry Lady

https://www.instagram.com/cloudberry_lady/ 

Finland. Mostly custom, all substyles. Does amazing hats. 

 

  • Cloud Chamber

http://www.cloudchamber.co.kr/ 

Korea. Gothic with very limited stock.


  • Clock Monster

https://www.etsy.com/shop/clockmonster 

Tennessee, US. Does lovely full-shirred OPs and custom sizes. 


  • Coruscate Unique

https://www.etsy.com/shop/CoruscateUnique

Indonesia. Mostly sweet and vintage-inspired; lots of solids and many size options.

 

  • Cruel Arcadia

https://cruelarcadia.com/ 

Korea. Gothic lolita.


  • Dejmo

https://dejmo.com/

Sweden. Mostly old school sweet and classic, with custom sizing and a wide default size range.

 

  • Eat Me Ink Me

https://www.eatmeink.me/shop 

Lithuania. Sold by Lolita Collective. Mostly classic and gothic, with some old school-able items. Custom orders are available. 


  • Elegy Clothing

http://www.elegyclothing.com/ 

Ohio, US. Mostly gothic, but has lots of good plaid items. 


  • Fluffy Tori

https://www.fluffytori.com/en/

Switzerland. Super-sweet with some old school-workable coats for the cold months. 


  • Glitter Tale

https://www.etsy.com/shop/Glittertalelolita 

Vietnam. Sweet; known for their custom sizing. Very popular with newer lolitas. 


  • Goth Loli Closet

http://www.gothlolicloset.com/main/index 

Korea. Lots of variety in design, but limited sizing.

 

  •  Happy Forest

https://www.instagram.com/happy_forest_2013/ 

Taiwan. Mostly sweet; orders via Instagram DMs. Limited sizing available.

 

  •  Ivy Frozen Designs

http://www.ivyfrozen.com/ 

US. A good variety of designs; currently doing custom only. 


  • Kaneko Shop

https://kanekoshop.com/ 

Russia. Linen and cotton in subdued colors. Some very nice, simple aprons.

 

  • KuroShiro Kawaii

https://kskawaii.com/

Texas, US. Retailer; sells Metamorphose, among other brands. 

 

  • Kyoko's Closet

https://www.etsy.com/shop/ichigoblack 

 Massachusetts, US. Specializes in bloomers with amazing size inclusivity. 


  • Le Carrousel

http://lecarrousel.iluria.com/ 

Brazil. Sweet and classic, a lot of which works for old school. Multiple sizes, but not a huge range.


  • Lief

http://www.lief.co.kr/ 

Korea. Sweet and classic lolita in a variety of colors, including unconventional ones like bright orange. Standard size range is okay but not super inclusive.

 

  • Lily of the Valley Designs

https://www.etsy.com/shop/SakuraFairy

Delaware, US. Mainly classic or sweet-leaning classic; known for excellent custom hair accessories and jewelry.

 

  • Lolita Collective

https://store.lolitacollective.com/

Illinois, US. Mostly a retailer for other brands. 


  • Magic Tea Party

https://www.etsy.com/shop/MagicTeaPartyDesigns 

China. Sweet lolita, the exact same items as on Taobao, but marked up in price. 


  • Megan Maude

https://meganmaude.storenvy.com/ 

Georgia, US. Sweet. Limited stock right now, but has a blouse that could work. Many sizes.


  • Me Likes Tea

https://melikestea.com/ 

Brazil. Petticoats, bloomers, and underskirts in a wide variety of styles and options. Custom size available. 


  • Meribel

http://meribel.co.kr/ 

Korea. Sweet,  mostly accessories.

 

  • Nemeth Wild

https://www.etsy.com/shop/NemethWild 

Iowa, US. Solid basics in black and white. Wide variety of standard sizes.

 

  • Noble Ghost Fashion

https://www.etsy.com/shop/NobleGhostFashion 

Maryland, US. Gothic with a decent standard size range.


  • Porcelain Doll

http://www.porcelaindoll.cz/ 

Czech Republic. Mostly sweet and classic, with a somewhat limited size range.

 

  • Rose Red Memorandum

https://r-r-memorandum.co.uk/ 

UK. Very overtly and uniquely focused on old school.

 

  • Shiroi Tsubasa/White Wings

https://www.etsy.com/shop/ShiroiTsubasa 

Russia. Mostly old school gothic; takes custom orders. 

 

  • Strawberry Paper Doll

https://strawberrypaperdoll.wordpress.com/

US. Custom sweet lolita and alterations. Streams on Twitch. 


  • Summer Tales Boutique 

https://summertalesboutique.com/

Netherlands. Their Nostalgia line is amazing for old school. Some items available in custom sizes. 


  • Sweet Mildred

https://www.etsy.com/shop/sweetmildred 

Pennsylvania, US. Sweet, classic, and gothic, with amazing lace-topped socks. Mostly does custom orders and sells at conventions. 


  • Violet Fane

https://www.violetfaneshop.com/  

Spain. Recently released a line called "Sumire", which focuses on old school cotton basics.

 

  • Vivienne Westwood

https://www.viviennewestwood.com/

UK. Not lolita but relevant. The quintessential punk brand, great for jewelry. 


Ringlet wigs

  •  Dream Holic

https://dream-holic.com/

A Chinese brand with good quality and worldwide shipping. Has one excellent ringlet wig. 


  •  Maple Wig

https://www.maple-wig.com/

The old school source for unrealistically curly ringlet wigs. Based in Japan. 

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